Monday, December 31, 2012

Zen and the Art of Rondinax Developing

For those who want an simple way to dive into home negative developing, I can't think of an easier way of getting started than to get your hand on the Agfa Rondinax 35U.

The Awesomeness of the Rondinax

The Rondinax 35U is daylight film developing tank, meaning that you don't need a darkroom for developing 35mm negatives. For those people who previously have used traditional plastic / steel tanks to load film, you are are in for a treat:
  • No Darkroom Required. You might need a change bag for certain situations, but I'll cover that later.
  • Spooling Film is no fuss! - This is great for beginners. You just put the clamp on the film and the Rondinax will almost do all the rest for you. Although I can now easily spool film now, I still prefer the Rondinax I have minimal contact with the film. This means less scratches and scuffs on the negative. That is always a plus. 
  • Minimal Amount Developer Needed. I think the smallest single developing tanks use 300ml of developer, the Rondinax only uses 200ml. Save your precious developer fluid. Its very economical, especially for colour development.
  • Colour and B&W - though the instructions in the manual are for B&W film, its just as easy (so long as you keep your temperatures constant) to develop colour film with a Tetenal c-41 kit.
  • Very consistent development - I've developed in tanks and the Rondinax, I've always gotten the most consistent results out of the Rondinax over my other tanks. 
The sub-awesomeness of the Rondinax

So whats bad about the Rondinax? There are a few things to consider:
  • One film at a time: Rondinax is a film-at-a-time type of tank. This means that it can take a lot of time, especially if you do colour development. I don't mind at all, if I wanted speed I'd shoot digital :)
  • Its made of Bakelite: There is nothing wrong Bakelite if you take care of it, however it doesn't seem to age a well as other plastics. I've had a couple of chips in my Rondinax, but nothing a bit of super glue couldn't fix. 
  • Temp Control: -The Thermometer doesn't go up to 38 C for colour development, so you'll just need to buy an extra thermometer.
  • Needs the film leader out. This is a nuance with modern 35mm cameras. By default, many automatic cameras will rewind the film all the way into the canister. The film leader, that small strip at the end with perforations only one edge gets sucked in. Well, you'll need to have the leader out.  I know of two methods for retrieving: film leader retriever and cracking the film open in a darkbag. I haven't used a film leader retriever before but have used the darkbag method several times. What you'll need is the film canister, can opener, Rondinax, and darkbag. Once in the darkbag, crack open the film from the bottom (not the top bit with the plastic bit sticking out). Place the film in the Rondinax and spool it.
Other Stuff 'bout the Rondinax:

What amazes me is these boxes has been around for 50+ years. It was based of a patent by Ernst Leitz dating to the late 1930s (ever hear of Leica?) and the design and use is very efficient and user friendly. Later Leitz partnered with Agfa to make Rondinax that I use. Here is a great link on the Rondinax's history, though you'll have use a translation program as its in Francaise.

What should you pay for your Rondinax? Its a bit of a mixed bag - I have paid as much as $100NZ (for the first one) and recently I pounced on a $40 Buy Now on You can see cheaper Rondinax's on Ebay, but by the time you are done with shipping and exchange rates the price comes closer to $80NZD. Note, if you do see one on Ebay, don't be afraid to ask the seller if they will ship it to NZ, even if its plastered on their listing that they will not ship overseas. I've found most sellers will actually ship to NZ (must be some of that Hobbit charm).

If you are looking for a rondinax manualclick here. If you are looking for more detailed how-to of using it, check out this superb Rondinax introduction from Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any English videos of how to use the Rondinax 35, but if you do find one, make sure post it in a comment here.

A couple of final tips:
  • If you have manual rewind camera, don't wind the film all the way into the cartridge, leave a little something for your friend, the Rondinax.
  • When spooling your film, don't ever tug needlessly after you meet resistance. Use the Rondinax cutting lever as soon as you feel a firm tug. If you are not sure, check the exposure counter to see where you are at (eg if its pointing at 36, and you have 36 exposure film, then its time to cut). The only time I messed up a roll in the Rondinax was when I pulling too tightly after feeling the first sign of resistance.
  • While it is Daylight box (meaning that you don't need a dark room or dark bag), having a changing bag is going to be really useful for emergency situations such as removing stuck film in the camera or the above mentioned film leader rewind problem. 
Parting Thoughts:

This is a very well designed daylight box - its perfect for beginners or extremes amateurs such as myself. Though I may overpaid for my Rondinax, I am reminding of the words of Gucci who said "Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten".

26 Years after Expiration Date (Old 126 Film)

I've recently bought a little Rollei SL26, its a gorgeous little camera. Trouble is that film is not available for it these days, and it hasn't taken to 35mm to 126 kindly. So I bought some extremely expired film of Ebay and would give it go. I developed 29 year old film before here, and it turned out alright. This film was 3 years younger (1986 vs 1983) and was ISO 100 (previous film was ISO 1600). I thought that given it was younger and ISO 100 it would turn out better than my 29 year old. But my 29 year old film had one advantage, even at ISO 1600... it was frozen, I am certain that my Ebay film was probably stored in a garage somewhere. The film was Fujicolor HR100.

Noneless... here are the results. I have shot 2 rolls, and 2 rolls of film are unusable (the film jammed upon spooling). The best results came when I nearly double development time (instead of 3:15 for average C-41 development, I did 5 minutes. They are almost monochromatic and have a massive colour shift

Ok so these aren't going win National Geographic awards, but there is a certain charm and artistic dreaminess to them. They are almost pastel and have a massive colour shift, but it was fun shooting the camera. I am not sure if the other film

The Polaroid 600SE - I'm not selling it.

The Polaroid 600SE was my first really serious investment in a pack film camera. I had picked up several cheap pack film cameras in the past for less than $15NZ in the past. I did some research and the 600SE seemed like the way to go for getting some serious quality packfilm shots.

I am writing this because I nearly put this on to sell on The word is nearly. The camera is heavy. Its hard to lug around. Sometimes the viewfinder was bit tricky to use. In the end, as I was writing the ad, I actually convinced myself there is no way in hell I am selling (yet)! I am not sure if I am a good ad writer or just being sentimental but after looking at the shots I took with the 600SE, I am sure I can get alot more mileage out of the camera.

For a great review of the Polaroid 600SE, go here instead of reading this post.

--- My Almost Ad to Sell My Polaroid 600SE -------------------------

Ultimate Polaroid Camera Christmas Package 
This is the Polaroid 600SE. Its been my main Polaroid camera and great work horse. I've recently taken photos with it; a sample of pictures are here. This is a working camera.  These are harder to come by in NZ, I bought this one the USA.  
Here's what you get:
  1. Polaroid 600SE Body
  2. 127mm Lens with cap 
  3. 3 Hoya Close Up Diopters for ultra close up shots: +1, +2, +4
  4. 3 Packs of FP-100C Fuji Film, expired 4/2012 but kept fresh in fridge and works.
  5. lens cloth
No fungus. The body has wear but its perfectly functional. This isn't a dainty instax camera, this thing is built like a truck: its a heavy beast and built to last. If you are digital photographer and are curious about film, this is a any easy gateway into film. 
The diopters - they take a bit of practice - but the you can take close ups up to 5.5".  Here's more info on Flickr Just keep in mind, this is rangefinder, not SLR, so you'll have to bring out the tape measure for accurate shots. 
This takes Pack Film, and if you haven't shot FP-100C before, it is gorgeous. This the type of film that you peel apart after an allotted time, not the type that slowly develops in front of you. FP100c is much larger than instax mini and bit larger than instax wide. Plus you get 3 packs of refridgerated (not frozen) packs. 
What it doesn't come with is light meter. You can also use an app called FotometerPro if you have an iPhone. Find it here:, its .99 ¢.  
Because I know you'll ask, there is no buy now. And for god's sake, no bidders who are going to put this on display, get out there and shoot!

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Flying Colours

Shot on 600SE f5.6 @ 1/250 sec. Baylys Beach, Northland New Zealand on expired Studio 125i (9/2009)
Camera being held is a 600 OneStep, using an experimental colour ribbon film I concocted ;)

Here are some addition shots I did at Bayly's Beach in Northland NZ.  These 2 shots where taken on Instax Wide Fuji Film. 

Sunday, August 26, 2012

dreaming tree (v2)

dreaming tree (v2) by Parahanga
dreaming tree (v2), a photo by Parahanga on Flickr.
Took another go at the same shot but with a different background. f5.6 @ 1 sec. Horseman 4x5 / FP 100c Film

dreaming tree

dreaming tree by Parahanga
dreaming tree, a photo by Parahanga on Flickr.
Shot on Horseman 4x5 Camera, Fuji FP100C film. 5.6 @ 1.5 secs (approx due to Bulb setting).

whatipu tennis ball

whatipu tennis ball by Parahanga
whatipu tennis ball, a photo by Parahanga on Flickr.
Tennis ball washed ashore at Whatipu. Shot on Polaroid 1200i Camera, spectra film (expired 2007).

whatipu cabbage tree

whatipu cabbage tree by Parahanga
whatipu cabbage tree, a photo by Parahanga on Flickr.
Cabbage tree at Whatipu. Shot on Spectra with 1200i Camera.

whatipu lagoon

whatipu lagoon by Parahanga
whatipu lagoon, a photo by Parahanga on Flickr.
Took this on Poloard 1200i, spectra film, expired 2007. At Whatipu, the landscape always changes - Its a gem of a place.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Hat Guy.

I forgot the orginal specs of this shot, but was on of the first shots on my Horseman 4x5 camera which I bought in February. Shot on FP 100c Fuji instant film. This picture was also cropped.


Shot on Horseman 4x5, Fp 100c film, F 5.6 @ 1/2 sec.

Polar Bear Club

Shot on Horseman 4x5, fuji fp 100c film, F 5.6 @ 1/4 sec.

Waste Disposal

Didn't quite get this photo the way I wanted... I should have widened the depth of field so the barrels are more in  focus and perhaps added some 'toxic spillage'... but here's one of my latest efforts. Shot on Horseman 4x5 with fp100c instant pack film. F5.6 @ 1/4 second.